Thanks to wonderful friends I have been able to purchase my first ever spinning wheel. (I am so grateful I can’t find the word to express myself!) I did something I would have never thought I would, I asked for help. Not only that, but I also asked for economical support! Like two things never ever thought I would be doing, and on a social media for that matter. Look at me, working on moving out of the comfort zone with the asking thing, and with the new experiencing of creating yarn! So, so, I am quite excited to present you, without further ado, my choice as a new spinning wheel…. 
*drum roll* Kromski – Minstrel – Ta-Daaa
This amazing, hand turned piece of craftsmanship is my choice. Trust me, choosing a spinning wheel was really hard. There is only a handful of brand in the world making spinning wheel, and they are that great dedicated passionate bunch of people, that also can provide accessories for vintage 1970’s wheels, making sure that their faithful spinners can continue enjoying creating yarn. Kromski & Son is a Polish company that has been making wheels for a long time, and this model, specifically is an up-right spinning wheel (although some will call it a castle wheel). An upright wheel is a wheel that has the orifice right above the spinning apparatus. 
This means that the orifice (the space where the yarn will travel to reach the bobbin) is perpendicular to the wheel and the treadles. Let me back up a moment so I will clarify few things about the traditional spinning wheel shape:
– The wheel is positioned on the side
– The orifice is on the opposite side of the wheel if there is a bobbin (there could be a spindle instead of the bobbin, in the same position)
– There is one or two treadle/s positioned diagonally from the center of the whole wheel towards the wheel.
So, sitting at this wheel means you’ll be slightly sideways—enough so your foot or feet can treadle while your hands draft and feed yarn through the orifice and onto the bobbin.
Why did I choose an upright wheel?
Because adding a slight twist to my body for long periods didn’t seem like a good idea health-wise. Many spinners with health concerns prefer upright wheels, as they allow a more natural, straight sitting posture. Also, many spinners commented how much time they spent learning versus the amount of yarn produced, and how much more comfortable an upright position felt.
Right, so upright was my choice, and alongside price, I had to focus on affordability. Wheels come in many types of wood: MDF (medium-density fiberboard), veneered MDF, and solid wood. I’m a bit picky — MDF feels like processed sawdust mixed with glue to me, so if I can compare prices, I always prefer solid wood. (Thanks, Dad, for making me a high-maintenance woman!)
So far, my decisions: Upright wheel, solid wood, on a budget.
Here’s a flyer and a bobbin explained: the flyer is the big U-shaped piece with circular whorls, and the bobbin looks like a large spool. Yarn-making magic happens here, with the big wheel spinning and a drive band connecting the whorl and bobbin (sometimes both). There’s also a brake to slow the bobbin down. Why slow down? Let me explain the basic process:
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A thread is knotted around the bobbin called the Lead. It goes through hooks and inside the orifice.
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A wool roving is attached to the lead.
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Your foot moves the treadle(s), which spins the big wheel.
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The wheel spins the flyer.
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The flyer twists the yarn.
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The brake slows the bobbin so the yarn winds evenly.
Without tension, you get messy, over-twisted yarn—exactly like mine after my first 4 hours of self-teaching! Tension is key.
Choosing a spinning wheel also means choosing the tension system:
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Single tension (Scotch or Irish tension)
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Double drive
This was confusing! The drive is what makes the wheel spin; the drive system (Irish or Scotch) controls how the bobbin pulls the yarn. For example, in Irish tension, the bobbin is directly connected to the main wheel but requires a brake strap to regulate speed. Scotch tension has the brake connected only to the bobbin with a spring.
Double drive means the wheel, flyer, and bobbin share the same drive belt—usually a figure-8 loop. If you choose a single drive wheel, you typically cannot switch to double drive later, except for some wheels with upgrade options.
Being a newbie, I kept my options open but had to consider price seriously. Spinning wheels are magical but expensive; some models cost over £700! My final criteria: upright, solid wood, option for double drive, and within budget.
The Kromski Minstrel is listed around £550 but I found it for £375 during a WoolOctober sale, thanks to the generosity of friends who chipped in. I can’t thank you all enough!
Thanks to your support, I have also purchased wool and some extra accessories.
Until next time!
This is a list of shops that I browsed and consulted when considering different options, I hope it helps you navigating your own thoughts a bit better
** we are not affiliated **
- https://spincityshop.com/
- https://wessexwoolcraft.co.uk/
- https://saltwaterrose.com/
- https://www.weftblown.com/
- https://www.artifilum.com/
- https://www.winghamwoolwork.co.uk/
- https://www.allinaspin.co.uk/
- https://www.fibrehut.co.uk/
- https://cushendale.ie/
- https://www.schachtspindle.com/
- https://threshingbarn.com/shop/
- http://www.hedgehog-equipment.co.uk/
- https://www.elkatextiles.co.uk/
- https://www.georgeweil.com/tools/spinning/
- https://www.handweavers.co.uk/
